Balmain Ivoire David & Victoria Beckham Signature for Her Or click on a letter of the alphabet below and itll take you to a collage of all the ingredients that start with that letter. Its earthy. It can be described as ambery, leathery, woody, animalic, honey, warm, smokey, balsamic, fruity and overall brings a sophisticated warmth to a fragrance," says perfumer Linda Song. Boucheron Boucheron The soft, sweet, pretty-pretty powderiness of blossoms from the flowering Prunus so prized in Japan are expected to start turning up in many more fragrances, as perfume starts to look East in earnest. Floris Fleur In Medieval times, lavender was strewn on the floors of churches and homes, used to scent linen and clothing, and also in pot pourri and sachets. Sun-dried, they make their way into all sorts of foods and have been used in Ambre medicine for over 3,000 years, for its stimulating effect on the digestion. Comme des Garons Odeur 53 There are a few scents, yes, which capture the sweet, grassy, earthy warmth of hay, which also has almost animalic qualities. Bury your nose in an amaryllis (do mind the pollen! Britney Spears Believe Its the roots of this perennial plant a flowering member of the valerian family which are used in perfumery, as well as in natural medicine and in aromatherapy, to soothe stress and anxiety. Goutal Paris Le Masmin Yes, really: ambergris is produced in the digestive system of sperm whales - to make it easier for the whale to digest shard objects (like squid beaks), so its thought. Fresh Love Karo-karounde (also sometimes written as karo-karunde) is considered to be an aphrodisiac and is used in the rituals of sexual magic, in the Congo! Today, were more likely to wear fig behind our ears, and on our wrists. Or as perfumer Julie Massexplains to The Perfume Society: 'An opulent sensation of green-leaf, or the hissing of hot, wet summer lawns - a strangely intense and yet cool floral. NB This visual is of the painting Fume dAmbergris by John Singer Sargent. With its tart/sweetness, meanwhile, the blackcurrant berry is a popular ingredient in todays fruity-florals. Get out your magnifying glass. Crush the leaves of this frothily-flowered plant, and they smell fetid, rotting rank, basically. A key ingredient in old and new Arabic perfumery, renowned as an element within high-quality incense in Arabic, Japanese and Indian cultures, oudh has now definitively crossed over to the west. When you eat it in situ, the flesh can be lush, sweet and juicy or a touch on the bitter side. Vera Wang Princess Night. Thats because it takes almost forever to produce oudh, which is actually the resinous heart-wood from fast-growing evergreen trees usually the Aquilaria tree. Christian Dior Bois d'Argent Most marshmallow-makers today use gelatine (for convenience and because the roots quite hard to come by), mixing it with sugar and corn syrup to create the familiar, puffy, sponge-y sweets. Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gioia Essenza Down the centuries, then, incense has been burned as a part of religious rites, as a fumigant to cleanse the air and kill germs or simply for the pure joy of its perfume. What is eau de saucepan (or aeroplane wing) doing in fragrance? Natural perfumers whose palette of ingredients is limited love it, as it delivers an animalic quality yet is cruelty-free, generally harvested from hives that have matured over five years or so, carefully harvested by hand and then extracted using solvents. Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gioia Not everyone thinks they love the smell of tobacco but encountering it in a fragrance is way more sensual an experience than walking into a smokey room, or dealing with the post-party ashtray challenge. Today, we can garland ourselves with bay through the use of fragrance: its a green, herbal note, maybe giving whispers of oregano and thyme, if you smell carefully, with subtle sweet hints of flowers. Geraniums used in colognes, herbal scents, florals and chypre fragrances. The seeds and fruit are edible and used in many cuisines and soft drinks, the bark produces a gum that is used as a stabiliser (gum Arabic) and in the production for printing and ink; and the timber is used in furniture making. Yves Saint Laurent Y. Aldehydes triggered a revolution in perfumery. Chanel Eau de Parfum Justin Bieber Girlfriend Philosophy Pure Grace But when vanilla is added to food or fragrance, naturally-present vanillin (and other vanilloids, which well talk about in a moment) work to hold open our vanilloid receptors, slowing down this wiping process which in turn gives us more time to perceive, experience and enjoy both scents and flavours. Because the Sequoia sempervirens tree is endangered, however through loss of habit and over-logging chances are its a fantasy sequoia. Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Jeans. Yves Saint Laurent Paris Gucci Gucci by Gucci Tom Ford Oud Wood. Vivienne Westwood Boudoir Jo Malone London Wild Bluebell Floris Seringa In the Victorians language of flowers, gardenia stood for refinement and purity. It does more things to your mind and body than just set off your scent sensors. Miller Harris Fleur de Sel Crabtree & Evelyn Lavender Nez Nez Atelier dArtiste ), The Polianthes tuberose plant is related to the lily - you can almost tell that, from smelling it. Technically, heliotrope can be still extracted by maceration (or through solvent extraction, the modern form of enfleurage), an echo of those times - but today its synthetic heliotropin read about it here which perfumers rely on. Thierry Mugler Angel Gardeners cultivate these widely, albeit most successfully inside fruit cages because birds, as well as humans, just love the perfectly-ripened fruit The distilled absolute of the blackcurrant buds and leaves is known as bourgeons de cassis (say it boor-shon da cassee): a light, fruity, woody note with a slightly animalic edge. Van Cleef & ArpelsCologne Noir. Something else to slip into your handbag, then: different dried fruits are now recreated in perfumery fantasy ingredients (i.e. In fragrance, though, peony is a fresh, soft floral note: uplifting, calming, working brilliantly alongside other floral notes, especially the equally delicately-petalled rose. The tree probably gets its name from the Latin pira. Balmain Ambre Gris Dior Miss Dior Boadicea the Victorious Adoration Jovoy La Liturgie des Heures The blood refers to the deep crimson flesh of this delicious Citrus sinensis orange, which flourishes in Italy. The roots of this plant also known as horse-heal (and officially Inula helenium) can be distilled to produce an essential oil, with a minty, violet-like scent. Angelica is a family of beautiful, umbellifer (or umbrella-like) plants, including Angelica archangelica: both the root and the seeds can be used (though the roots more pungent). The first works perfectly in more exotic, Ambre blends making for something thats almost skin-like, or suede-soft - while the aromatic green cardamom adds brightness mostly to colognes and mens scents. When the Iranian revolution broke out in 1979, the oil supply dried up and Chanels perfumer faced the challenge of reworking this iconic scent. Linalool breaks down when it comes into contact with oxygen, it becomes oxidized and can cause allergy. Molton Brown Mesmerising Oudh Accord & Gold Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire Paco Rabanne 1 Million But above all, they give depth and sexiness to a fragrance'. Dior Diorama It starts a conversation with the "still small voice of calm".'. Keiko Mecheri Bois de Santal Guerlain Idylle Dior Oud Ispahan When I take the lid off and sniff, I cant help letting out a long appreciative mmmmmmmmm. Guavas themselves, we find, dont travel well: best enjoyed in a tropical setting at the peak of their ripeness. As any gardener will tell you, camellias dont smell. Este Lauder Private Collection "Smells like forest bathing to me.". (Those last two are outlawed in modern perfumery, of course.) Cardamoms been spicing up perfumery (and the incense trade) at least since Egyptian times, and was one of the key fragrance plants used in Greek perfumes. Christina Aguilera Inspire (Were going to try it out on our cashmere, and will report back.) Avocado comes from aquacate which apparently derives from the Aztec for testicle. ), Acqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta Frederick Malle Dans Tes Bras LAritsan Parfumeur Vanille Absolument Among these chemicals are numerous known allergens such as This native of Central and South Asia, a relative of hops, is now probably grown in every country of the world (albeit quite often in attics under gro-lights). According to romantic legend, the name Iris comes from the Greek rainbow goddess Irida, who used a rainbow to slide from sky to earth, bringing the will of the Olympic Gods to share with mere mortals. When you're smelling a gourmand scent, then, see if you can make out either a burned sugar caramel quality, or a candyfloss, spun-sugar airiness. Juicy Couture Juicy Couture Walk through a garden especially at dusk and youll smell honeysuckle way before you see it: heady and nectarous, a little like jasmine tinged with vanilla. Oscar de la Renta Oscar Crabtree & Evelyn Wisteria Frederic Malle Dans Tes Bras LArtisan Parfumeur Fleur dOranger (Confusing spellings, too: it can be spelled camomile, chamomile and camomile.) Miller Harris Fleurs de Bois Yes, it does: its honeyed, musky, softly sweet and intimate, sometimes with hints of pollen. Indeed, there are so many varieties and cross-overs (see below for a selection from Wikipedia's extensive page), that to date, no one author has successfully categorised them all. Like quite a few perfume ingredients, this is one thats invaluable in cooking, too: a sprig in a casserole, or a sauce, adds a wonderful aroma. Yardley English Lavender. Thierry Mugler Angel There are hundreds of different species of Narcissi today white, yellow, some with a touch of pink or orange (including our everyday daffodil) but not all are fragrant. Instead, its the name given to a simple fragrance accord of labdanum, benzoin and vanilla and/or, sometimes, touches of tonka and Peru balsam, which also have a sweet, resinous quality. To me, it smells confident, sexy, feminine, while exuding modernity through its green facet," says perfumer Natasha Ct. Serge Lutens Fleur dOranger. ), Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta But as with many unlikely perfume ingredients, add it in the teensiest dose, and hemlock can add depth and intrigue. (Plus the fougre family, which is mostly mens scents. Not the best-known fruity note but rhubarbs popularity is on the up, from all weve seen lately. Guerlain Mitsouko Chanel Les Exclusifs 28 La Pausa Supremely versatile, it blends exquisitely with cloves, lavender, geranium, jasmine, galbanum, frankincense, black pepper, jasmine and patchouli; it works as a fixative, tetheringother ingredients and keeping them true, in a composition. Although its called grey amber (ambergris), its not to be confused with amber. Yes, really: this salty, smoky breakfast food has been used in synthetic form as a novel (very novel) perfume ingredient in John Leydons Fargginay fragrance brand, in a specific bacn collection. Heaven knows how or why someone had the idea of using the soft, paste-like glandular secretion from underneath the swishy striped tails of civet cats, however, which they use to mark their territory: its extraordinarily powerful and even stomach-turningly obnoxious in its concentrated form. Happily, its so concentrated that only a small amount need be used (although several very sophisticated scents do ramp up the tuberose, as a star ingredient). Boucheron Boucheron Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud, Several names for this: Curry Plant, Herb of St. John, Immortelle (which you might know from a LOccitane skincare range) - and botanically, Helichrysum angustifolium. (Mostly mens, but a few shared and womens scents; it goes really well with other aromatics, such as fennel, licorice, tarragon, basil and fennel, in aromatic and ambre creations.) Its a special treat and its packed with sunshine. There are dozens of species of evergreen in the pine/fir family and the essential oils produced by each of them have subtly different qualities. (The best oil, though, is said to come from Tunisia, where Jean-Paul Guerlain has his own bitter orange grove) During the distillation process, a beautifully scented waters also produced, which makes its way into floral waters and flavourings. (And seems to work equally well on members of the opposite sex.) Walk past a hedgerow in full blossom and youll breathe the spicy, almond-like scent of the flowers which has been prized for centuries by perfumers. Theres nothing light and airy about guaiac wood, thats for sure. Dior Dolce Vita So how can it work, in a perfume? Diptyque LEau de Neroli To paraphrase Shakespeare, jatamansi by another name would smell as sweet and its got plenty of those other names: nard, spike, muskroot, tapaswini and sumbul are just some of the other words used for this ingredient. If any single ingredient can create those effects, its musk. A Bellini cocktail is a must for many thousands of visitors to Venice, who since 1948 have flocked to Harrys Bar in Venice to sip on their speciality: a cocktail of sparkling white Prosecco and white peach puree. Tangerine is one of the genuine natural fragrances that has the same effect. (Labdanum is today extracted from the leaves using solvents, although the branches can also be boiled.). Frederic Malle Carnal Flower Today's savvy perfumers, however, are far from the first to recognise thesheer sensual potential of this 'Queen of Flowers'. "It gives a strong effect in a perfume even in a very small amount," says Gillotin. But did you know that this stone-fruit is related to the cashew family? Personally, we prefer to wear our guaiac wood, for an air of mystery. Givenchy Ysatis "It was used for the first time in 1966 in iconic fragrance, Eau Sauvage by Parfums Christian Dior," says Huclier. ', Amouage Tribute linden, or Tilia cordata) almost seems to drip with honey. (Strictly it should probably be a solifruit, but there you go.) Balenciaga Balenciaga Paris Mignonette also known as Reseda odorata originates in Northern Africa, but is cultivated commercially in the south of France to produce a delectably-scented essential oil, using solvents or a maceration technique. Its highly skilled work, and only a few distilleries produce patchouli of a high enough quality to please a VIP nose, or creator. That whoosh of uplifting zestiness is precisely why perfumers love to use it: as a sweet, refreshing, sadly fleeting top note, very often in colognes but also in Ambre and fruity-floral scents. Le Labo Perfume Neroli 36 Theyre wonderful in the home, possibly the perfume-lovers must-have bloom. Yohji Yamamoto Yohji Essential. Orange blossom absolute is richer, sweeter, headier there are hints of that other white flower, jasmine, about it (and if you look at its chemical make-up, there are similar aroma compounds in both). Calvin Klein Escape. In India, meanwhile, narcissus one of the oils applied to the body before prayer, along with jasmine, sandalwood and rose. Narciso Rodriguez for Her Givenchy Ange ou Demon Lanvin Arpge It has a waxy, soft floral quality, in perfumes almost as if it lightly dusts the perfume with pollen. But if the Christmas trees the most familiar member of the pine family, its just one of 115 varieties that grow mostly in the Northern hemisphere. This tree - native to the Middle East and south Asia but now also blossoming across Europe, Africa and the United States first offers us a froth of white or pale pink blossoms: almond blossom absolute, taken from those flowers, is a soft note with hints of subtle heliotrope, or honey. Ormonde Jayne Osmanthus. 19 was a very high grade from Iran. (Although eugenol is also produced synthetically, nowadays.) A highly important ingredient in perfumes. Can anyone whos not a trained nose tell the difference between this and an actual peach? What you smell actually comes from a sticky brown resin, taken from a plant that grows (often in very inhospitable, dry locations) in the Mediterranean, North Africa and the Middle East. This masculine splash started as an artisan creation on the Caribbean island of St. Thomas, but many other West Indian islands (as well as American and European fragrance companies) now make a version. Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle. ), to lighten the woodiness. 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